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Rhodes Village - Eastern Cape
Main Street The Bridge
Southern approach Naude's view
River crop lands The ubiquitous caravan park
A Rhodes abode
Post office Telephone box ( honest! )
A brief history of the village of Rhodes White
farmers settled the more remote areas of the Highlands of the Eastern Cape in the 1880s.
Prior to this, the only inhabitants of this inhospitable region were seasonally migratory
members of the San tribe. They, at least, were sensible enough to follow the exodus of
most game species out of the mountains during the harsh winter months! A
land surveyor, Joseph Orpen and his brother Richard laid out farms in the Barkly East
district and parts of the Herschel area. They immigrated to South Africa in 1864 and
although originally from Dublin, the farms were given Scottish names – on account of
the surveyor being of Irish origin? Their descendants still conduct farming activities on
a property given to Orpen in lieu of cash for the job. Farms thus demarcated became
available for purchase from the government on a “huurkoop” basis. The
origins of Rhodes lie in the establishment of agricultural activities and the concurrent
development of the Dutch Reformed Church in the region. It was founded on the farm Tintern
that belonged to a Mr Jim Vorster. Vorster agreed to the establishment of the village on
condition that 100 plots be sold and that it be named after the then Prime minister of the
Cape, Cecil John Rhodes (1853-1902). A Mr Shaw of Sauer & Osmond duly sold the plots
and Rhodes was founded on 16 September 1891. The rest of the farm was given to the village
as commonage. Rural legend has it that the village was first named Rossville. Despite
careful archival research of extant documentation by the School of Architecture of the
University of Natal, including a publication by P Raper entitled the “Dictionary of
South African Place Names”, no evidence of a name change from Rossville to Rhodes was
found. However, a possibility exists that as Ross was the Dutch Reformed minister at the
time, this misconception is probably based on confusion between the name of the local
church ward named Rossville in his honour and that of the village. Another possibility is
that it was the figment of somebody’s imagination seeking to romance the origins of
its name. Ross
was based in Lady Grey and ministered from there to the far-flung outposts in the region,
travelling from farm to farm on horseback. Ross was of Scottish origin and alternated
between English and Afrikaans each Sunday whilst conducting his ministry. The outbreak of
the Anglo-Boer War interrupted his activities. He was perceived to be too closely aligned
with the opposition by the British and was summarily arrested. He spent the duration of
hostilities in the concentration camp in Aliwal North. On cessation of the war, he was
released with the clothes on his back and no shoes. Ross walked from Aliwal North to Lady
Grey barefoot. Thoroughly disenchanted with the British he vowed to never conduct another
church service in English ever again. Credit must be given where it is due. He religiously
stuck to his word. On
the 15th June 1892, the cornerstone of the Dutch Reformed Church was laid. The
population at this time was estimated at between 250 and 300 people. The construction of
the church was soon followed by that of the Post Office, Court Room and Gaol complex that
was completed in 1898 at a cost of the princely sum of 558 pounds 14 shillings and 10
pence. Construction of the Naudesnek Pass was started in 1895 on the advice of Stephanus
Naude of the farm Dunley who was the first person to cross the mountain range with an
oxwagon. Heavy snowfalls during the Anglo-Boer War stopped construction and the pass was
completed in 1905 under the direction of engineer Alfred Bain. The old wagon route can
still be seen in places. Early
records show that schooling started in 1894 with 45 pupils. By 1895, Rhodes boasted the
largest school in the Barkly East district with 67 pupils. By 1912, this had increased to
90. In February 1916, a process to acquire land for a school was started. By the 6th
of March 1918, the “Rhodes Education Site” was given to the village for the
construction of a school. Sir Herbert Baker allegedly designed the school building,
completed in 1924. Baker left the Cape Colony in 1902 and South Africa for New Delhi in
1913 which was some three years before the good citizens of Rhodes started agitating for a
formal school premises and facility. His partners Kendall and Morris or possibly Kendall
on his own may well have designed it. Baker, Kendall and Morris had a partnership until
1920 when Baker resigned. Kendall & Morris continued to practise until 1925 when
Morris left. A boarding school was started in about 1915 in the old Ginsberg Hotel run by
Mr H Venter in 1905. It burnt down during its use as a hotel and was rebuilt to become the
school hostel. It is hostel function ceased with the closure of the school. It became a
family home with its heyday in the so-called “Hippie era” of the late 70s and
early 80s. It was then used as a base station for the Tiffindell Ski Resort construction
team and is the site on which Walkerbouts Inn was established in 1996. Major renovations
were completed by June 1999 and it has continued in its current state since then. By 1928,
there were 112 pupils and teachers with classes being given up to standard 8. By the 1940s
the number of pupils declined to 70 and by 1947 there were only 30 to 40 pupils with 3
teachers. By 1948, Std 6 was the highest pupils could aspire to and by 1967 there were
only 20 pupils in attendance. The school finally closed in 1974. Another
rural legend has it that Rhodes acknowledged the village being named after him by way of a
donation of a wagonload of pine trees. Early photographs of the village as well as the
life span of the species concerned debunk this charming anecdote. However, records show
that 1 pound 17 shillings and 3 pence was paid to the Barkly East Municipality for pine
trees (Pinus insegnus). Botanically speaking these trees have a lifespan of approximately
70 years. Some can still be seen in the village which adds weight to the non-C J Rhodes
origin of the trees. The
village is 1840m above sea level and 16km due south of the Kingdom of Lesotho. The towns
of Maclear, Ugie and Elliot that lie below the nearby escarpment surround it. Barkly East
lies above the escarpment to its west, about 60km or at least 60 minutes drive from the
village on a narrow and winding gravel road that must be driven with care. Rhodes is a
remote village, almost frozen in time, a relic from the past and a living record of the
trials and tribulations of the surrounding farming community. The unique nature of the
architecture finds its origins in the Victorian era and is a compromise between fashion,
availability of materials and practicality. Houses range from grand traders’
residences to flat-roofed ‘kerk-huisies’ used as town houses in days gone by
when travelling to the village, mostly on horseback, from the surrounding farms was a
major outing. These buildings are sprinkled amongst tree-lined streets and all contribute
to the quaint charm of the atmosphere. The
village has had several phases starting off as a direct result of the agricultural
activities in the area. Agricultural fortunes gradually declined until the village became
almost derelict in the late 70s. It was “discovered” at this time by a group of
people seeking an alternative lifestyle, “Living off the land, man”. This period
was referred to as the Hippie era and a multitude of legends surround it, amongst the last
proponents of this way of life was literally burned out of the village. His house burnt
down and in more recent years the owner was compensated for the damage in the course of
the activities of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission. The
village gradually became better known as a tourist destination and with the advent of the
ruralised yuppies, property prices have soared making it impossible for the average person
who may have wanted to settle in the village to do so. In 1970, houses were
“sold” for the arrears in rates and taxes or even given away. By 1987 good-sized houses sold for up to R30 000.
By the mid-90's this had doubled. The same properties would now command prices in the
region of R400 000. The nett result of this popularity is that there are now fewer
permanent white residents than there were three years ago. Yuppies and such have made it
more difficult for “real” people to be able to afford to live in Rhodes on a
permanent basis – indeed a world-wide phenomenon! Note from the webmaster: Thanks to Dave Walker, presumably the author, for the above article. 1. For more information on early settlements in this region a number of publications may give varying impressions. eg. " History of the Basuto, Ancient and Modern" by D. Fred. Ellenberger,V.D.M. available from Morija Museum and Archives, Morija, Lesotho Tel +266 233 60 308 - Curator Stephen Gill 2. Peter E. Raper's "New Dictionary of South African Place Names" refers to "Rossville (EC 3027 DD). Former name of Rhodes... " page 327 . Cf. - bibliography pages on this site.
Here are some useful addresses in the Rhodes area:
Wild Trout Association: Information, administration & central beat register http://www.rhodesvillage.co.za/ The Highland Brewery: Producer of fine beer (No contact details supplied) Walkerbouts Inn : AA Quality Assured Accommodation in the "Recommended" category http://www.walkerbouts.co.za/
Thanks to Dave Walker for this information. http://www.rhodesvillage.co.za/ Contact Dave on : Telephone 045 974 92 90 Fax 045 974 93 06
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